hankyoreh

based near Seoul’s popular Hongdae area

Around 2010, the makgeolli industry enjoyed unprecedented growth, but the traditional Korean rice beer still has a negative image. For many people, makgeolli is something that farmers or manual laborers drink, is cheap, leads to bloating and belching, induces vomiting, leaves a nasty hangover, smells bad, causes indigestion, and only shows up at university festivals and traditional events.

Since 2009, the perception that makgeolli is a healthy alcoholic beverage -suppressing cancer cells and promoting colon function - has gained ground, but this is still not the dominant image. Experts argue that makgeolli’s image, atmosphere, and brand need an overhaul.

People drink makgeolli in the Taste of the Moon

The best example of a makgeolli chain that beat the perception that the drink is the poor man’s alcohol was Taste of the Moon (Wolhyang in Korean), based near Seoul’s popular Hongdae area, which opened in 2010 under the slogan that “tradition is a trend.” Taste of the Moon gained a great deal of popularity by selling a bottle of makgeolli (750-900 ml) - which typically goes for 3,000-4,000 won (US$2.80-US$3.70) - for 8,000-30,000 won (US$7.50-US$28).

To be sure, these were not the conventional market offerings, but rather premium local brands or makgeolli that Taste of the Moon had brewed up itself. The chain put 28 kinds of makgeolli and 11 kinds of other traditional brews on its menu.

Taste of the Moon positioned makgeolli as a premium beverage. At first, there were some doubts about whether makgeolli would sell for 8,000-30,000 won a bottle, but it turned out that booze connoisseurs had been eagerly waiting for just that kind of makgeolli. While the craft makgeolli at Taste of the Moon harks back to times when individual families and inns brewed their own makgeolli, it also coincides with the growing popularity of craft beer, which is made at home, or on a small scale. This chain also brought together makgeolli offerings that were diverse in their place of origin, fermentation method, raw ingredients, flavor, and strength.

one of the best makgeolli chain

In pubs and bars overseas, customers are allowed to choose from a wide range of beer and wine in stock, but many Korean bars still only sell the limited range of alcohol provided by their distribution company. In Korean bars and restaurants, choosing your own makgeolli is still a luxury.

The Taste of the Moon chain has currently expanded to three outlets. The company has also opened four branches of Moonshine, which sell wine at affordable prices.

“Good makgeolli is not the only thing we sell. We’re also providing our customers with a total pleasure package, which includes the food, the atmosphere, and the Taste of the Moon brand,” said Lee Yeo-yeong, president of Taste of the Moon.

“People started talking about sake when George Clooney said that’s what he drinks on his favorite days. That’s the kind of marketing that makgeolli needs.”

The first pub specializing in traditional alcohol was Bekseju Village by Kooksoondang Brewery, with eight branches in operation at the moment. Meanwhile, Kooksoondang Brewery’s other traditional alcohol brand, called Woori Soolsang (Our Table with Drinks in Korean), has 10 branches. The brewery also premiered a self-service traditional alcohol bar called Mister B last year.

Neurin Maeul Brewery and Pub by Baesangmyun Brewery has already opened three branches.

By Kim Kyu-won, staff reporter

Please direct questions or comments to [english@hani.co.kr]

Taste of the Moon, a makgeolli bar near Seoul’s popular Hongdae area