hankyoreh

The conference buildings of the Neutral Nations Supervisory Commission and the Military Armistice Commission that straddle the military demarcation line (MDL) separating South and North Korea look the same as they did six months ago, their white paint still cracked and peeling. But on my visit to the Joint Security Area (JSA) at Panmunjom on May 1, the mood was different from before.

The JSA had been closed to the general public for six months, while it was being demilitarized according to an inter-Korean military agreement reached on Sept. 19, 2018, known as the Comprehensive Military Agreement (CMA). When the JSA was reopened on Thursday, no weapons could be seen on the soldiers who were guiding visitors around the area. They weren’t wearing their bulletproof helmets, either.

“Before [the demilitarization measures were taken], there were many more than 35 soldiers doing guard duty here while carrying [loaded] handguns. But now there are just 35 of us, and we don’t carry firearms anymore,” said the servicemember who was leading the reporters’ tour.

Soldiers from both sides have set aside their weapons

In accordance with Article 2, Clause 2, of the CMA, South Korea, North Korea and the UN Command completed the demilitarization of the JSA in October 2018 and then wrapped up a trilateral joint inspection in November. Mines that were lurking around the South and North Korean sections of the JSA were dug up, too. The soldiers laid down the weapons they had carried, and the firearms stored at guard posts on both sides were removed as well. During my tour to Panmunjom on Wednesday, I was able to confirm that the North Korean guard post was sealed up. The building itself was still there, but a white sign has been pasted on the window indicating it was no longer in use.

Soon, the South Korean soldiers who are assigned to Panmunjom are planning to wear armbands that say, “civil police.” “The design of the armbands is already complete, and they’re currently in production,” a military official said. The North Korean armbands have already been made and are being worn by their soldiers.

On Wednesday, some 320 visitors who had applied to the Ministry of Unification and the National Intelligence Service (NIS) for a visit to the JSA toured Panmunjom after its makeover. Around 10 am, three North Korean soldiers were spotted approaching the MDL and eyeing the South Korean reporters and other visitors before returning to their posts. Ten or so tourists from North Korea took snapshots in front of Panmungak (on northern side) and Freedom House (on southern side), while a group of more than 100 Chinese tourists crowded onto Panmungak’s second floor.

Civilians also get to walk on the footbridge

If you stand in front of the South Korean Freedom House, looking across the MDL toward Panmungak, and take 10 steps to your right, immediately on your left will be the pine tree that was planted by South Korean President Moon Jae-in and North Korean leader Kim Jong-un on Apr. 27, 2018. There’s also a plaque engraved with the message, “Planting peace and prosperity.” Just one year old, the pine tree is still frail, and propped up by support beams, but it’s soaking in the vitality of spring.

A little beyond the pine tree is a T-shaped blue bridge, the famous footbridge. The bridge rests on a field of thick green grass. A year ago, Kim and Moon sat at a table on one end of the bridge for a 30-minute private conversation while they were broadcast live to the whole world, with nothing audible except the chirping of birds.

On the day the reporters visited, the footbridge was being repaired to make it safer for visitors. Once those repairs are complete, all visitors to Panmunjom will be able to take a walk on the footbridge. They’ll also get to take photographs in front of the place where Kim and Moon sat down together.

“Since the bridge is made of wood, it might be a little weak. We’re doing repairs to ensure that visitors in wheelchairs are safe when they move around the bridge,” explained an official with the UN Command.

Still a long way to go

Of course, the stakes driven into the ground to indicate the invisible MDL are still there, as is a noticeboard that’s so red with rust that its message of “Military Demarcation Line” is no longer legible. While the original terms of the CMA state that the JSA will be opened up to visitors from South and North Korea after demilitarization, the implementation of that part of the agreement has been delayed because South Korea, North Korea and the UN Command haven’t managed to finish drafting their joint code of conduct. What’s clear, however, is that the tension at Panmunjom fomented by the armed soldiers is gone.

“What once was a vibe of tension is now a vibe of peace,” said Lt. Col. Sean Morrow, commander of the UN Command’s security battalion at the JSA, during a meeting with reporters.

For the month of May, four groups of tourists from organizations that have applied with the Unification Ministry and the NIS will be allowed to visit the JSA on a probationary basis. Starting in June, foreign tourists will also be able to visit via travel agencies, with eight groups allowed each day.

By Noh Ji-won, staff reporter

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